Audemars Piguet Watches

Audemars Piguet luxury swiss watches

“To break the rules, you must first master them.”

Audemars Piguet (pronounced Oh-de-mar Pi-gay), often referred to by its abbreviation AP, is a luxury Swiss Watch manufacture founded by two families from dynasties of inventors – the Audemars Family and the Piguet Family. Jules Louis Audemars (1851 – 1918) and Edward Auguste Piguet (1853 – 1919) both founded Audemars, Piguet & Cie in 1875 with the intention of crafting watches with complex mechanisms, and since 1882, members of both families have been running and retaining ownership of the company. Jasmine Audemars remain the Chairwoman of the Board of Directors today.

Audemars Piguet boutique in Milan, Italy
I walked into the AP retail outlet in Milan, Italy in December 2013
and was greeted by the boutique’s very friendly assistants.
Audemars Piguet boutique in Milan, Italy
A closer view of the boutique’s display of fine elegant Audemars Piguet watches
just behind the storefront’s display window.
Advertisement

“…if I had six figures to spend on a watch today, it would definitely be an Audemars Piguet…”

– Devon Buy

When I began appreciating watches about a decade ago, I never gave Audemars Piguet watches a second look – perhaps it was the bulky case, and maybe I didn’t find the sporty front appealing. Things changed in the last two years when I started giving Audemars Piguet watches closer scrutiny, to the extent of trying them out at the AP Boutique and watch shops – they look better on the wrist than on the display case. Call it acquired taste, and if I had six figures to spend on a watch today, it would definitely be an Audemars Piguet – my pick would be the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in forged carbon case (also presented below). Or maybe even the Sébastien Buemi. It is something I would give an arm and a leg to own. Not literally though. I usually tell people these days – in order to witness its true beauty, it has to be admired on the wrist!

Presented below are some of my favourite models from AP’s collection.

 

“With the eight hex studs on the bezel, oversized pushpieces and well-designed screw-locked crown, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II exudes attention to detail and was for a long time my personal favourite…”

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Sébastien Buemi

“The yellow highlights on the seconds scale counter ring just before the tachymeter flange on the dial in combination with little red punctuations on the hands excite interest when one takes a gander at the Royal Oak Offshore Sébastian Buemi.”

“Can you fault the Jules Audemars Grande Complication for the mystery that lies beneath its dial? The complexities that partly show incite wonder and amazement even in the most technical amongst us…”

AP Jules Audemars Grande Complication
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Carbone Concept

“On the hand-wound tourbillon Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Carbone Concept, the linear chronograph minute counter adorns the 3 o’clock side, and a function selection indicating whether the watch is in time-setting, neutral or winding mode sits at the 6 o’clock position. With an impressive 237-hour power reserve, the indicator at the 12 o’clock position will take a while to move from full to zero while it rests on your shelf…”

Get It On eBay


 

Seen the Back of an AP lately…?

Audemars Piguet watches
The back of the AP Royal Oak Carbone Concept mentioned above, showing the Calibre 2895 Manufacture seated snugly in a forged carbon case.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Limited Edition caseback
The caseback of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Automatique reveals an engine that powers the watch…with the aid of a skeletal AP rotor.
 

The Series – The Collection

ROYAL OAK

AP Royal Oak Self-Winding

ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING
Ref. 15400ST.OO.1220ST.01
AP Royal Oak Tuxedo

ROYAL OAK TUXEDO
Ref. 15154BC.ZZ.D004CU.01
AP Royal Oak

ROYAL OAK OPENWORKED
Ref. 15305OR.OO.D088CR.01

  • stainless steel case
  • 41.00 mm case width
    9.80 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 40
  • number of parts: 280
  • power reserve: 60 hours
  • screw-locked crown
  • water-resistant to 50 m
  • black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
  • white gold applied hour-markers
  • Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
  • stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp

  • 18-carat white gold case entirely set with diamonds
  • 39.00 mm case width
    8.60 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 36
  • number of parts: 212
  • power reserve: 40 hours
  • screw-locked crown set with a rose-cut diamond
  • water-resistant to 50 m
  • polished lacquered black dial
  • diamond-set white gold applied hour-markers
  • diamond-set white gold hands
  • diamond-set 18-carat white gold AP folding clasp

  • 18-carat pink gold case
  • 39.00 mm case diameter
    9.40 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 38
  • number of parts: 239
  • power reserve: 60 hours
  • screw-locked crown
  • water-resistant to 50 m
  • openworked skeleton with centre seconds
  • gold applied hour-markers with luminescent coating
  • gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp, OR
    stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE

Royal Oak Offshore Diver

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
DIVER

Ref. 15703ST.OO.A002CA.01
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
CHRONOGRAPH

Ref. 26400AU.OO.A002CA.01
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Pride of Siam

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
CHRONOGRAPH PRIDE OF SIAM

Ref. 26172SO.OO.D202CR.01

  • stainless steel case
  • 42.00 mm case width
    13.80 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal
  • number of jewels: 40
  • number of parts: 280
  • power reserve: 60 hours
  • black rubber clad screw-locked crowns
  • water-resistant to 300 m
  • black dial with “Méga Tapisserie” pattern
  • white gold applied hour-markers
  • Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
  • inner rotating flange with diving scale, operated by 2nd crown at 10 o’clock position
  • rubber strap with stainless steel pin buckle

  • forged carbon case case
  • 44.00 mm case width
    15.00 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal
  • titanium or pink gold sapphire crystal caseback
  • number of jewels: 59
  • number of parts: 365
  • power reserve: 50 hours
  • screw-locked crown and pushpieces
  • stainless steel, titanium or pink gold pushpiece guards
  • water-resistant to 100 m
  • black dial with “Méga Tapisserie” pattern
  • black or silvered counters
  • gold applied hour-markers with luminescent coating
  • gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
  • black or silvered flange
  • rubber strap with stainless steel, titanium or 18-carat pink gold pin buckle

  • stainless steel case
  • 42.00 mm case width
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal caseback engraved with the legend “Pride of Siam – Limited Edition”
  • white ceramic bezel
  • number of jewels: 59
  • number of parts: 365
  • power reserve: 50 hours
  • white rubber clad screw-locked crown and pushpieces
  • water-resistant to 100 m
  • silvered dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
  • silvered counters
  • pink gold applied hour-markers
  • Royal Oak hands with white luminescent coating
  • silvered flange
  • hand-stitched hornback white crocodile strap with gold-coloured stitching and stainless steel AP folding clasp
  • additional white rubber strap
Royal Oak Offshore Sebastien Buemi

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
CHRONOGRAPH
SÉBASTIAN BUEMI

Ref. 26207IO.OO.A002CA.01
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Michael Schumacher

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
CHRONOGRAPH
MICHAEL SCHUMACHER

Ref. 26568IM.OO.A004CA.01
Royal Oak Offshore Arnold Schwarzenegger The Legacy Chronograph

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
ARNOLD SCHWARZENEGGER
THE LEGACY CHRONOGRAPH

Ref. 26378IO.OO.A001KE.01

  • titanium case with microbille finishes and polished bevels
  • 42.00 mm case width
    15.00 mm case thickness
  • octagonal ceramic satin-brushed and polished bezel
  • caseback with transferred Buemi logo
  • number of jewels: 59
  • number of parts: 365
  • power reserve: 50 hours
  • white rubber clad screw-locked crown and pushpieces
  • water-resistant to 100 m
  • black dial with “Méga Tapisserie” motif
  • red chronograph function hands
  • luminescent hour-markers
  • black rubber with titanium pin buckle

  • titanium case with extra-hard almost scratchproof cermet bezel
  • 44.00 mm case width
    15.65 mm case thickness
  • titanium attachment studs and 8 polished stainless steel bezel screws
  • titanium caseback with sapphire crystal opening, different finishing and engraving
  • number of jewels: 59
  • number of parts: 365
  • power reserve: 55 hours
  • micro-blasted titanium crown
  • polished black ceramic base pushpieces topped by micro-blasted titanium pushpiece guards
  • water-resistant to 100 m
  • anthracite galvanic dial with “Méga Tapisserie” pattern
  • black galvanic counters, finely grooved with raised frames blackened inside and rhodium coloured polished on top
  • 8 white gold applied hour-markers with white luminescent coating
  • anthracite inner bezel ring with tachymeter scale
  • red date on black date disc
  • grey rubber strap with titanium pin buckle

  • titanium caseback engraved with the legend “Royal Oak Offshore Arnold Schwarzenegger The Legacy Limited Edition”
  • 48.00 mm case width
    14.10 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal
  • black ceramic bezel and screw-locked crown
  • number of jewels: 50
  • power reserve: 38 hours
  • pink gold pushpieces
  • water-resistant to 100 m
  • “Méga Tapisserie” pattern
  • black counters
  • pink gold applied Arabic numerals
  • pink gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
  • pink gold coloured flange
  • aramide fibres with titanium oversized pin buckle
  • additional black crocodile strap
Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
GRANDE COMPLICATION

Ref. 26571IO.OO.A002CA.01
Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH

Ref. 26288OF.OO.D002CR.01
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Perpetual Calendar

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
CHRONOGRAPH
PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Ref. 26209OR.OO.D101CR.01

  • titanium case
  • 44.00 mm case width
    17.50 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces
  • number of jewels: 52
  • number of parts: 648
  • power reserve: 45 hours
  • water-resistant to 20 m
  • sapphire dial
  • white counters
  • white gold applied hour-markers
  • Royal Oak hands with white luminescent coating
  • light silver-toned inner bezel ring
  • black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle
  • additional white rubber strap

  • 18-carat pink gold case
  • 44.00 mm case width
    16.60 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • forged carbon bezel
  • black ceramic screw-locked crown and pushpieces
  • number of jewels: 30
  • number of parts: 328
  • power reserve: 237 hours
  • water-resistant to 100 m
  • openworked at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock
  • silvered counters
  • Arabic numerals
  • pink gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
  • black flange
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile with 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp

  • 18-carat pink gold case
  • 42.00 mm case width
    15.93 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal
  • number of jewels: 50
  • number of parts: 436
  • power reserve: 38 hours
  • screw-locked crown
  • water-resistant to 100 m
  • “Grande Tapisserie” pattern on dial
  • black counters
  • pink gold applied hour-markers
  • Royal Oak hands with white luminescent coating
  • black inner bezel ring
  • hand-stitched hornback alligator strap with titanium, 18-carat pink gold OR 950 platinum AP folding clasp

MILLENARY

Millenary 4101

MILLENARY 4101
Ref. 15350ST.OO.D002CR.01
Millenary Minute Repeater with AP Escapement

MILLENARY MINUTE REPEATER
WITH AP ESCAPEMENT

Ref. 26371TI.OO.D002CR.01
Millenary Carbon One

MILLENARY
CARBON ONE

Ref. 26152AU.OO.D002CR.01

  • stainless steel case
  • 47.00 mm case width
    13.00 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 34
  • number of parts: 284
  • power reserve: 60 hours
  • water-resistant to 20 m
  • black and anthracite dial with off-centred disc
  • pink gold applied Roman numerals and hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with stainless steel OR 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp

  • titanium case – LIMITED EDITION OF 8
  • 47.00 mm case width
    15.80 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 40
  • number of parts: 443
  • power reserve: 165 hours
  • not water-resistant
  • anthracite dial with silver small seconds counter
  • pink gold Roman numerals and hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with titanium AP folding clasp

  • forged carbon case – LIMITED EDITION OF 120
  • 47.00 mm case width
    16.40 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • black ceramic bezel
  • number of jewels: 30
  • number of parts: 336
  • power reserve: 237 hours
  • water-resistant to 20 m
  • hand-wound tourbillon chronograph with 24-hour power reserve indication
  • black dial, openworked
  • white applied hour markers with luminescent coating
  • blackened gold hands with luminescent coating
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with blackened titanium AP folding clasp

JULES AUDEMARS

Jules Audemars Extra Thin

JULES AUDEMARS
EXTRA-THIN

Ref. 15180BC.OO.A002CR.01
Jules Audemars Dual Time

JULES AUDEMARS
DUAL TIME

Ref. 26380BC.OO.D002CR.01
Jules Audemars Grande Complication

JULES AUDEMARS
GRANDE COMPLICATION

Ref. 25996TI.OO.D002CR.02

  • 18-carat white gold case
  • 41.00 mm case width
    6.70 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 36
  • number of parts: 212
  • power reserve: 40 hours
  • water-resistant to 20 m
  • silvered dial
  • pink gold applied hour markers
  • pink gold hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with 18-carat white gold pin buckle

  • 18-carat white gold case
  • 41.00 mm case width
    9.25 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal
  • number of jewels: 33
  • number of parts: 261
  • power reserve: 38 hours
  • water-resistant to 20 m
  • silvered dial
  • pink gold applied hour markers
  • pink gold hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with 18-carat gold AP folding clasp

  • selfwinding watch with perpetual calendar indicating day, date, week, moon phases, month and leap years, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and small seconds
  • 42.00 mm case width
    14.00 mm case thickness
  • sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 52
  • number of parts: 648
  • power reserve: 45 hours
  • not water-resistant
  • white indicators
  • blackened gold applied hour markers and hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with 18-carat gold, 950 platinum, OR titanium AP folding clasp
Jules Audemars Minute Repeater with Jumping Hour and Small Seconds

JULES AUDEMARS
MINUTE REPEATER WITH
JUMPING HOUR AND SMALL SECONDS

Ref. 26356PT.OO.D028CR.01
Jules Audemars Openworked Equation of Time

JULES AUDEMARS
OPENWORKED
EQUATION OF TIME

Ref. 26053PT.OO.D002CR.01
Jules Audemars Chronometer with AP Escapement

JULES AUDEMARS
WITH AUDEMARS PIGUET
ESCAPEMENT

Ref. 26153OR.OO.D088CR.01

  • 950 platinum case
  • 43.00 mm case width
    12.00 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 35
  • number of parts: 420
  • power reserve: 72 hours
  • not water-resistant
  • white dial, openworked
  • silvered printed Arabic numerals
  • blued steel hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with 950 platinum AP folding clasp

  • 950 platinum case
  • 43.00 mm case width
    11.70 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 41
  • number of parts: 425
  • power reserve: 40 hours
  • water-resistant to 20 m
  • transparent sapphire dial
  • white indicators
  • blued steel hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with 950 platinum AP folding clasp

  • 18-carat pink gold case
  • 46.00 mm case width
    12.70 mm case thickness
  • enamel, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 33
  • number of parts: 267
  • power reserve: 90 hours
  • water-resistant to 20 m
  • hand-wound chronometer with small seconds and power reserve indication
  • black enamel dial with black lacquered gold small seconds counter
  • white printed numerals
  • pink gold hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap in brown with 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp

TRADITION

Tradition Grande Complication

TRADITION
GRANDE COMPLICATION

Ref. 26567TI.OO.D092CR.01
Tradition Perpetual Calendar

TRADITION
PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Ref. 26051PT.OO.D092CR.01
Tradition Minute Repeater Tourbillon Chronograph

TRADITION MINUTE REPEATER
TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH

Ref. 26564RC.OO.D002CR.01

  • selfwinding with perpetual calendar indicating day, date, week, moon phases, month, leap years, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and small seconds
  • 47.00 mm case width
    13.75 mm case thickness
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 52
  • number of parts: 648
  • power reserve: 45 hours
  • water-resistant to 20 m
  • silvered dial
  • pink gold applied Arabic numerals
  • pink gold hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale alligator strap with titanium AP folding clasp

  • 950 platinum case
  • 47.00 mm case width
    8.50 mm case thickness
  • sapphire crystal and caseback
  • number of jewels: 20
  • power reserve: 42 hours
  • water-resistant to 20 m
  • silvered dial
  • pink gold applied Arabic numerals
  • pink gold hands
  • hand-stitched large square scale crocodile strap with 950 platinum AP folding clasp

  • 18-carat pink gold case
  • 47.00 mm case width
  • glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
  • 18-carat white gold bezel, crown, pushpieces and caseback
  • number of jewels: 38
  • number of parts: 504
  • power reserve: 48 hours
  • not water-resistant
  • satin-brushed anthracite dial
  • pink gold applied Arabic numerals and hands
  • hand-sewn large square scale alligator strap with 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp
Get It On eBay


A Little Bit of History

THE AUDEMARS FAMILY
THE PIGUET FAMILY
André Hodemart settled in Geneva in 1558 before founding the Audemars dynasty in the Vallée de Joux. The branch that specifically interests us here appears to begin with Elisée Audemars (1779 – 1850). In association with his brother Louis Benjamin Audemars (1782 – 1833), he headed the watch company bearing the same name. Elisée’s son, François Louis (Loyal) Audemars, was a farmer who tended the fields and raised cattle in summer. The eldest of six children, Jules Louis (1851 – 1918), co-founded the Manufacture Audemars Piguet in 1875. The three following generations remained at the head of the company: his son Paul Louis (1881 – 1969) from 1918 to 1959, followed by the latter’s son Jacques Louis (1901 – 2002) from 1959 to 1992, and finally Jacques Louis’ daughter Jasmine (1941) who has been Chairwoman of the Board of Directors since 1992. Of all the families established in the Vallée de Joux for several centuries, the Piguets are probably the most ancient. As with the Audemars, the Piguets are watchmakers from generation to generation. The son of Eugène Piguet, Edward Auguste (1853 – 1919) became a master watchmaker, and in 1875 co-founded Audemars, Piguet & Cie with Jules Louis Audemars. His son, Paul Edward (1890 – 1979) jointly headed the company between 1919 and 1962. One of his daughters, Paulette Gabrielle (1921 – 2003), who was associate secretary general of the World Alliance of Reformed Churches in Geneva, took his place on the Board of Directors from 1979 to 2003, when she was replaced by her nephew Olivier Franck Audemars (1959).
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak book
AP Milan was very kind to present me with the Royal Oak book – a compendium of AP history and events. Apparently, my poodle-pinscher Jaafar found it interesting too. This book provided some of the content material for this article.

Chronology of Historical Events

EXPAND TO VIEW THIS SECTION


HIDE THIS SECTION

THE “FOUNDING” YEARS
1875 The two watchmakers decide to produce and sell watches finished by them. Jules Louis Audemars takes charge of the technical side of the business, while Edward Auguste Piguet is responsible for the commercial and financial aspects.
1881 Dec 17. The two associates officialise their partnership before a notary. Edward Auguste’s contribution to the starting assets is 10,000 francs, and that of Jules Louis consists of 18 finished complicated movements. The two associates are to share the company profits and losses, and are both entitled to a fixed salary renegoatiable after three years.
1882 Dec 6. The company is officially registered with the Administration of the Office technique d’Edition et de Publicité(Technical Office for Publishing and Advertising) in Bern.
1885 To meet growing demand, Audemars Piguet opens a subsidiary at 13, Place du Molard (Geneva), which enables it to place the inscription “Genève” on its watch dials. The company will maintain an office in Geneva until 1975.
1886 – 1888 The company specialises in complete watches with complex mechanisms, but the worldwide sale of these watches is achieved via a network of agents established on the most important markets at the time: England, France, Germany, the United States and Argentina.
THE “DEVELOPMENT” YEARS
1889 Audemars Piguet presents complex pocket-watch models at the Universal Exposition in Paris. The success encountered enables the company to establish representatives on the five above-mentioned key markets.
1907 For the first time, the Board of Directors is no longer exclusively composed of members of the two founding families. October. The 1907 American bank panic sparks a crisis entailing repercussions that notably affect the Swiss watch industry.
1911 The founder’s son Paul Louis Audemars is appointed to the Board.
THE “WAR” YEARS
1914 1st board meeting. The two founders lend the factory CHF 12,500 each to resolve the cash-flow issues. February 18th. Paul Edward Piguet requests a salary raise, which the Board grants him only in part. Favouritism is not the company rule. A watchmaking workshop, which is not a boutique, is opened at no. 16, Rue du Mont-Blanc in Geneva.
2nd board meeting. Out of the 23 workers in the factory, twelve have been called up.
3rd board meeting. The state of orders is disastrous. The management wishes to avoid losing its highly skilled workforce and the employees want to keep their jobs. A compromise is found by means of a four-day working week and a 20% salary cut.
1917 March 31st. 27-year-old Paul Edward Piguet is appointed Managing Director.
1918 Edward Auguste Piguet becomes Chairman of the Board.
October 17th. Jules Louis Audemars dies, and his son Paul Louis takes his place as Technical Director.
1919 Edward Auguste Piguet also dies. His son Paul Edward succeeds him as Sales Director.
THE “CONSOLIDATION” YEARS
1920 July 11th – 25th. The company takes part in the Foire suisse d’horlogerie, bijouterie et branches annexes (Swiss watch, jewellery and related industries fair) in Geneva. The models, including a model housing 15 complications and depicting the 315 stars visible in the night sky above London, are acclaimed by the press.
1921 January 1st. The working week is fixed at eight hours a day, six days a week.
February 11th. Monthly salaries are reduced by 5%.
May. New 15% drop in monthly salaries.
December 30th. The week is cut to 40 hours.
1931 Paul Louis Audemars suggests setting up in Geneva a representative office which would also serve as a point of sales.
1933 Jacques Louis Audemars, grandson of the founder, joins the company as an apprentice.
1935 The company is in grave danger. Paul Louis Audemars asks the cantonal authorities to exonerate it from taxes and suggests creating two cheap brands named Audiguet and APCO.
1936 Paul Edward Piguet requests a grant from the Canton of Vaud Chamber of Commerce.
THE “WAR” YEARS
1939 January 9th. Jacques Louis Audemars is appointed Deputy Managing Director at the age of 29. The company has just ten workers and the working week has been reduced to 32 hours.
June 13th. The company is granted a CHF 15,000 ten-year loan and, in order to maintain its workforce, associates with the Geneva-based Universal Watches company which produced cheap chronographs.
1940 June 26th. Short-time work is introduced. An order for 90 watches from Tavannes Watch Co. and Universal Genève saves the company from bankruptcy.
1941 The 48-hour working week is reintroduced.
1942 The Italian government prohibits the importation of gold watches. Accordingly, thirty years before the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet makes steel watches.
1943 Hand-wound Calibre VZSS 13”’ (30 mm in diameter) is interpreted in different versions: central seconds (VZSSC), seconds at 6 o’clock (VZSS), and seconds at 9 o’clock (VZAS). It is still one of the finest ever Haute Horlogerie movements.
1945 Audemars Piguet is granted a CHF 170,000 loan from the Société de Banque Suisse.
May 1st. Georges Golay is hired as an accountant.
THE “RECONSTRUCTION” YEARS
1946 Audemars Piguet launches a first, the world’s thinnest hand-wound movement (1.64 mm): Calibre 9”’ ML; which powers wristwatches.
1947 Georges Golay suggests a restructuring of the company. Creation of two so-called standard, meaning less expensive brands – APCO and Audiguet – and progressive modernisation of production methods.
1949 First participation in the Foire suisse d’échantillons (Swiss Sample Fair) in Basle (future Baselworld). The company closes down its New York branch. Carlo Sarzano, who founded Sarcar in 1947, becomes an Audemars Piguet agent for Italy and then Spain. The inscription “& Co.” appearing on the dials vanishes and the numbering system is modified. The Audiguet and APCO watches are not selling.
1951 Business relations are intensified between Audemars Piguet and Jaeger LeCoultre. A watchmaker is hired to make Grande Complication models in Geneva, which enables the company to place the inscription “Audemars Piguet Genève” on its dials.
1953 Launch of a production programme encompassing 1,580 movements. The 1946 extra-thin 9”’ ML movement is replaced by Calibre 2003 featuring the same dimensions.
1955 The economic recovery is well under way, since the programme foresees the production of 1,920 watches. The main markets are Switzerland (1), the United States (2), Italy (3) and Germany (4).
1958 Financial stakeholdings shared between the families of the various manufacturers are commonplace during this period. The two main directors of Jaeger LeCoultre – Jules-César Savary and Roger LeCoultre – both sit on the Board of Audemars Piguet.
1959 The technical management of the company is entrusted to Jacques Louis Audemars.
THE “CHANGE” YEARS
1960s All the new calibres have made their appearance.
For men’s models: the 2001 (9”’ 9/12, semi-thin hand-wound), the 2003 (9”’, extra-thin hand-wound), 2070 (13”’, selfwinding) and its variations, 2071 (central seconds) and 2072 (calendar).
For ladies’ models: the 2426 (hand-wound from beneath), 2050 (hand-wound) and 2005 (baguette type). The ébauches are made in larger quantities. Four “older” calibres are maintained: the 13”’ VZSS (1943), the 9/10”’ RS (round, 1951), the 13”’ VZSSC (1952), and the 10”’ TS (tonneau shape, 1953).
1962 Georges Golay is appointed Sales Director, thereby replacing Paul Edward Piguet.
1967 The mechanical selfwinding Calibre 2120 is a world first: it is – and remains to this day – the thinnest in the world in its category (2.45 mm). Twenty-two years after joining the company, Georges Golay is appointed Managing Director.
THE “REVOLUTION” YEARS
1971 An after-sales service department independent from production is set up, resulting in a major change in the corporate philosophy.
1972 April 15th. At the request of the Italian and Swiss markets, the company launches the Royal Oak. In due course, this model is to revolutionise the world of Haute Horlogerie thanks to the introduction of a “low-end” material – steel – and gain the company leadership status.
1973 The Manufacture Audemars Piguet comprises of a 70-strong staff and annual production amounts to 8,000 watches.
1975 100th anniversary of the Manufacture. Stephen Urquhart is hired as Sales Director. The Geneva sales office is closed down.
1978 The selfwinding Perpetual Calendar model on leather strap emerges from the Audemars Piguet Technical Department, based on the extra-thin selfwinding Calibre 2120, the world’s thinnest movement. It proves an immediate success and, in the midst of the quartz period, Audemars Piguet thereby revives worldwide enthusiasm for watches with complex mechanisms.
1985 Swiss sailor Pierre Fehlmann wins the Whitbread Trophy. For the first time in its history, Audemars Piguet is one of the sponsors. Georges-Henri Meylan is hired as Production Manager.
1986 First series-made extra-thin selfwinding tourbillon model (also the smallest in the world at 7.2 mm in diameter) on a leather strap. The caseback serves as the movement base.
1987 October. Georges Golay dies after 40 years with the company. Stephen Urquhart and Georges-Henri Meylan are appointed as joint Managing Directors. Soon afterwards, Florence Piguet takes the head of the Financial Department.
1989 Golfer Nick Faldo becomes the first brand ambassador.
THE “NOVELTY” YEARS
1990 Dual Time, the first selfwinding watch to display two time zones with a single movement.
1991 First selfwinding tourbillon with power reserve and date. The Star Wheel is also launched. It is based on an Audemars Piguet system enabling read-off of the hours and minutes by means of a display on sapphire discs.
1992 Triple Complication on leather strap and Minute Repeater with jumping hours. Jasmine Audemars becomes Chairwoman of the Board of Directors and of the newly created Audemars Piguet Foundation.
1993 Royal Oak Offshore. Inauguration of the Audemars Piguet Museum in the original Audemars Piguet family home dating from 1868. Opening of the first Audemars Piguet Boutique at 68, Rue du Rhône, in Geneva.
1994 A new world first: the Grande Sonnerie on leather strap with miniaturised movement. This model chimes the hours and quarters automatically or “in passing”, and also serves as a quarter repeater.
1995 Audemars Piguet celebrates its 120th anniversary. Launch of the minute repeater John Shaeffer, Millenary and Carnegie models.
1996 The Ladies’ Royal Oak Offshore is presented and Calibre 2003 (an evolution of 9”’ ML) celebrates its 50th anniversary. Chess World Champion Gary Kasparov becomes an ambassador of the brand which also launches its website.
1998 Stephen Urquhart leaves Audemars Piguet.
1999 Audemars Piguet restructures in order to produce its own movements. The Tradition d’Excellence line is inaugurated with the Jules Audemars Minute Repeater, Tourbillon and Split-Second Chronograph model in platinum.
THE “SUCCESS” YEARS
2000 May 17th. 125th anniversary of the Manufacture Audemars Piguet: the entire company sets off for Paris by the TGV high-speed train, directly from the Le Brassus railway station!
2002 For the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak, the brand launches the Royal Oak Concept watch featuring a superlative range of features.
2003 March 2nd. Alinghi wins the 31st America’s Cup. Launch of the Royal Oak City of Sails.
2005 For its 130th anniversary, Audemars Piguet launches the selfwinding Calibre 3120 with direct-drive sweep seconds hand.
2006 The company continues opening boutiques around the world and launches a new lubricant-free escapement, fitted on the Tradition d’Excellence No5, which also features a double balance-spring.
2007 A second victory for Alinghi in the America’s Cup. Launch of the Royal Oak Offshore Team Alinghi Chronograph.
2008 Inauguration of the Manufacture des Forges.
December 31st. Georges-Henri Meylan retires.
2009 January 1st. Philippe C. Merk is appointed the new CEO.
2010 – 2011 Audemars Piguet is 135 years old and has a personnel of 1,000 in Switzerland and abroad, 14 distribution subsidiaries, 19 boutiques and 3 production sites manufacturing 25,000 watches a year.
2012 The Royal Oak celebrates its 40th birthday with an Extra-Thin Tourbillon model.

Handling Audemars Piguet Watches

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The iconic Royal Oak in 37 mm stainless steel case. The sapphire crystal caseback behind this unassuming front displays the mechanical selfwinding AP Calibre 3120 movement, which drives the hours, minutes and seconds as well as the date.
Audemars Piguet watches
At 44 mm, the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph looks somewhat too big for my wrist. But the forged carbon case and larger pushpieces make them so appealing. Put one on my wrist and you won’t hear me complain!
Audemars Piguet watches
Another version of the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with rubber strap…
Audemars Piguet watches
…note the large Arabic numerals, white counters and magnified date display on the
Méga Tapisserie dial.
Audemars Piguet Ladies Royal Oak
Even my wife finds this selfwinding Ladies’ Royal Oak in 33 mm steel case very desirable. For someone who doesn’t appreciate watches the way connoisseurs do, that speaks volumes!

See where Audemars Piguet rank in the hierarchy of watch brands.


AUDEMARS PIGUET WATCHES AND BOOKS


 
BUY AUDEMARS PIGUET WATCHES


Subscribe
Notify of
guest

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

1 Comment
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
devonbuy.com